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17 MIN READ TIME

Restaurants are for eating, not playing

By Les Dunn

A few years ago my wife and I went for Sunday brunch in a ‘family friendly’ south London restaurant. Footloose and child-free, we were ignorant of the implications of that innocent phrase.

Children ran around. Children screamed. Children ran around screaming. One child banged on the wooden floor with a plastic toy, over and over and over again.

It wasn’t a one-off experience. At a hotel in Worcestershire (family friendly, of course), we watched as a pair of whooping children did laps of the public rooms, at cocktail hour, dragging a wheeled horse behind them. A third little darling went around the elegant lounge blowing out every tea light.

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About delicious. Magazine

Ottolenghi is back! Find his new recipes in our October issue, along with the best things to eat this autumn including Hugh F-W’s cheesy gratin, Atul Kochhar's home cooking and easy one-pot meals. There’s also a Mexican chilli cook-off, proper bao buns and a foolproof beef wellington. On the sweet side, get stuck into John Whaite's rich chocolate cake, a frangipane crumble and our ultimate biscuit collection – better put the kettle on…

Other Articles in this Issue


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