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“Lamb reminds me of friends, family & good times”

Henry Harris earned a reputation as a champion of French country cooking at London’s (now sadly closed) Racine restaurant, but the roots of his style lie in the English countryside, and he brings both influences to bear at the four London pubs where he now masterminds the cooking. Here Henry recalls a childhood connection to lamb that will inspire new food memories for everyone who tries the recipes


Food writer in residence No 9

the residency.

Georgia’s peppered and braised shoulder of lamb with flageolet beans, p76

Butterflied marinated leg of lamb with couscous salad & harissa yogurt

I grew up at the foot of the South Downs in the small village of Fulking. I have clear memories of long walks, blackberry picking in late summer and of treks up what was called the butter track, a wide chalk lane cut into the Downs that in wet weather was so muddy it was like walking through soft butter.

My mother was firmly committed to sending my brother and me outside for long periods whatever the weather. In the spring it was lambing season and we’d walk to a nearby farm and help feed the orphan lambs milk from dark brown beer bottles with plastic teats fixed to the tops. These small hungry creatures would soon be in the fields growing at a healthy rate. They would grace the table at Easter, pale, delicate and sweet. When autumn took hold, the larger and more flavourful animals would find their way to the butcher.

Autumn lamb is fuller, sweeter and denser in texture. After long, slow roasting, a lamb shoulder requires only a spoon to portion it.

A rack of lamb with a trimmed but healthy fat covering, roasted with a herb crust and served with dauphinois potatoes and quince jelly on the side, is only bettered when served with a glass of claret.

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About delicious. Magazine

Ease into autumn with the October issue of delicious. magazine. Cosy up with Ottolenghi's simple comfort food, Debbie Major's satisfying sausage casseroles and the perfect autumn dessert – sticky toffee apple pudding. Follow the MasterChef finalists' guide to running your own supperclub and perfect your baking with our ultimate scone recipe and DIY garibaldi biscuits (aka squashed flies!). Our hearty vegetarian midweek dishes and main-meal soups will also keep you toasty and warm this month. Plus, don't miss all our fab foodie competitions and reader offers.

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