I SWORE I’D NEVER GO BACK to Tenerife: three times over in fact, each after holidays in my early 20s. Memories of sticky nightclubs, greasy food, scuttling cockroaches, building sites everywhere and a background scent of sewage finally led to a two-decade separation between us. But parenthood, of course, changes everything. My five-year-old daughter’s second-ever half-term holiday was coming up, the south of Tenerife was looking like the only sunny place across the whole of Europe, and so the time came to give the most-visited Canary Island another chance. At the last minute we booked a hotel and overpriced budget airline flights. As it turned out, the experiences we hadn’t planned were the ones we most enjoyed.