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Skeletons roam the streets across Mexico during the festival of Día de Muertos (Day of the Dead) this November – find out more on p16

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Lonely Planet
November 2018
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Editor’s Letter
editor’s note
The wonderful woman who’s long been my wife has had
EXPLORE
The Macarena and Alameda, Seville
Seville local Fiona Flores Watson introduces us to her favourite neighbourhood – the Macarena and Alameda, home to a lively community, bohemian cafés, traditional flea markets and some of the most striking architecture in the Spanish city
Somerset
Get behind the wheel for an autumn amble around the Somerset Levels, enjoying some of the region’s best produce as you explore
Cyprus
As memories of summer ebb away in northern climes, one of the last places in the south to stay warm is Cyprus – closer to Asia and even Africa than to mainland Europe. Come here now to enjoy a low season that still offers plenty of blue sky
University Arms, Cambridge
New life breathed into an old city stalwart
Photography Tours
Travelling with a professional photographer helps you to see your surroundings in a new way – and we don’t just mean 5am starts to catch the sunrise. If you’ve ever wanted to polish your photo skills, why not try a tour where you can learn from the best? Scenic locations are guaranteed, and with most trips promising groups of five to ten, you can also see how others approach the same subject
Revel in Mexico’s Day of the Dead
Mexico’s home-grown parallel to Halloween brings an extra splash of colour and emotion as the nights grow longer. The event has shot up in global fame recently, and inspired last year’s Disney film Coco. Hotels around some of the most photogenic festivities book out months ahead, so pencil in a trip for autumn 2019 to give yourself a chance
The Umbrella
The staple of an autumn trip, crossing the globe from China to France
Unleash Your Creative Forces
Just as we are drawn ever further into a digital world, there’s a slow but determined push in the opposite direction, with more and more of us looking for reasons to close that laptop, put down the smartphone, and learn a new and tangible skill. We’ve picked our favourite centres for urban-dwellers to flex their creative muscles and test their crafting skills
Basquiat and Schiele in Paris
Two artists whose careers were as brilliant and bold as
Stop motion sickness
Many travellers find that by targeting acupressure points in the arm, you can reduce nausea when you’re shaken about
Luggage
Streamline your travel with these bags and organisational aids
Bhutan
The Land of the Thunder Dragon does things differently. In
Social Media Slave
Do you trust your social media followers? Be led astray for a day by obeying their every command
JOURNAL
TALES FROM THE ROAD
The Austrian capital gave the world Sigmund Freud, Gustav Klimt,
Double
Each month we set our Instagram followers a new challenge: submit photos on our chosen theme. Here we reveal the winning images for ‘double’
Rio Life
Rosie Ubacher presents a photographic homage to her new home in Brazil
Don’t lose hope when an airline loses your luggage
A mislaid hold bag can be a character-testing and even wardrobe-enriching event, as Oliver Smith discovers en route to Montenegro
Apple strudel
Our quest heads in search of the best version of this truly Austrian dessert in Vienna’s historic cafés, and also tests some experiments with the classic recipe
If only I had…
Whether it’s an ill-advised hotel choice, hiring an inept tour guide or trying month-old ‘freshly caught oysters’, one poor decision can ruin a great destination for you. We’ve asked Lonely Planet staff to relive their travel woes, and what they’d do differently if they went back for another go
Following Oscar Wilde through Greece
It’s never too late to try a bicycling holiday for the first time, nor to retrace Victorian-era footsteps through the original Arcadia
Malaysia
WHEN MY FRIENDS AND decided at the high point of
City of Artists
When my wife and I moved to Paris from LA,
FEATURES
Walking with the Emperors
Pilgrims have sought spiritual renewal on the sacred paths of Japan’s Kii Peninsula for over a millennium. Walk in their footsteps along the Kumano Kodo
Pick‘n’mix Bruges
Celebrating the joy of the mini-break, our new series offers a carefully curated shortlist of the very best a destination has to offer. Choose and book your favourites to build a bespoke trip - done your way
Autumn BOLTHOLES
The months of October and November count as a special, often-overlooked time to take short breaks – we share nine beautiful places to hole up in this season, whether you want to pull on some wellies and go leaf-kicking or settle by the fire with a good book
GREAT ESCAPE Colorado
Begin your Coloradan adventure in one of its capital’s coolest neighbourhoods, before heading south into the mountain-fringed town of Telluride. Next, descend into the mines that put this region on the map, before discovering the mysteries of the people who lived in the awe-inspiring cliff dwellings of Mesa Verde Country
EUROPE’S BEST RAIL JOURNEYS
Choose any – or all – of enjoyed casual vast wilderness commuter from the and bubble train, vignettes to of experience a luxury from bygone carriage unforgettable eras or a seat vistas, in a Dramatic is the operative word for this route, which rumbles over unsullied, mountainous landscapes from the Serbian capital to Montenegro's Adriatic coast. Like the region it serves, the railway eludes most tourists' maps. The reward for treasure-hunting travellers is an embarrassment of cultural and geographic riches at every bend
TOP PICKS
Autumn in Athens
With egual measures of grunge and grace, Greece's capital is a heady mix of history and edginess. Autumn ushers in a cooler climate that's ideal for exploring the city. Use the tips below to inform your route
Culture in Tunis
Tunisia's capital is deservedly re-emerging as a travel destination. At the confluence of Eastern and Western civilisations, Tunis is an engaging city full of hybrid ideas and layered histories, as this guide reveals
After dark in Budapest
Night time suits Hungary's capital, with restaurants, bars and entertainment venues galore. Find equal pleasure inside a grand relic of imperial times, or a 'ruinpub' housed in a semi-derelict building
Food and drink in Phnom Penh
The Royal Palace's glimmering spires, the fluttering saffron of monks' robes and the mighty Mekong River - Cambodia's capital is Asia at its most alluring. We suggest the best spots to eat, drink and sleep here