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33 MIN READ TIME

Sudan’s secrets

Words and photographs by Stuart Butler
Camels walk past the Begrawiya (Meroe) pyramids, the most spectacular of Sudan’s historical sites

I never did find out the names of my hosts for breakfast that morning. There were half a dozen of them, all solidly built, with weathered features that spoke of a lifetime of sun and wind exposure. All were wearing imamas (or ‘turbans’) and jalabiyas (‘robes’) that must once have been gleaming white, but that were now stained the colour of sand and camel. One of the men handed me a small glass of tea (with more sugar than water in it) and a bowl of what appeared to be porridge mixed with cement. We crouched in the sand to eat, while a hundred camels gurgled and grumbled around us. We were on a flat, sandy wasteland outside the small town of Ad-Dabbah.

Pillars of time. The remains of the 14th-century BC town of Sesibi;
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Travel Africa
April-June 2016 (74)
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