This website use cookies and similar technologies to improve the site and to provide customised content and advertising. By using this site, you agree to this use. To learn more, including how to change your cookie settings, please view our Cookie Policy
Pocketmags Digital Magazines
EU
Pocketmags Digital Magazines
   You are currently viewing the European Union version of the site.
Would you like to switch to your local site?
Digital Subscriptions > Travel Africa > January-March 2019 (85) > In reflective mood

In reflective mood

It seems unbelievable that Lake Kariba has remained under the tourist radar for so long; perhaps dominated by other better-known attractions that make up Zimbabwe’s embarrassment of riches. But, easily reached from Victoria Falls, Kariba offers a safari experience unlike any in Africa and makes a contrasting complement to conventional wildlife destinations like Mana Pools or Hwange. Here’s why. By Sue Watt
AFRICAN BUSH CAMPS

View finder: Perched on top of the escarpment, Bumi Hills Safari Lodge overlooks the floodplains and Starvation Island, where wildlife stranded when the lake’s waters rose still survive

You don’t mess with Nyaminyami, the river god of the mighty Zambezi. Half serpent, half fish, when something upsets him, he’ll stop at nothing — not even death — to vent his anger: locals believe he killed over eighty people in one day seeking to protect his valley. And now I’m here, I can understand why.

It was my first morning in Kariba, and just after dawn I sat in stunned silence as the waters around my houseboat turned blood red. It wasn’t from the wrath of the river god, though — it was the reflections of the most spectacular sunrise I’ve seen.

Truth be told, in fifteen years of travelling to Zimbabwe, Kariba had never really been on my radar. I knew of it but not really that much about it. I’d even flown over its vast sparkling waters. But with so much competition from big hitters like Hwange, Mana Pools and Victoria Falls, Kariba had remained resolutely in the shadows. Until, that is, I was asked to cover a story for The Times: a new cruise was starting up — would I be interested in going?

READ MORE
Purchase options below
Find the complete article and many more in this issue of Travel Africa - January-March 2019 (85)
If you own the issue, Login to read the full article now.
Single Issue - January-March 2019 (85)
€4.49
Or 449 points
Annual Digital Subscription
Only € 3.00 per issue
SAVE
33%
€11.99
Or 1199 points

View Issues

About Travel Africa

Africa's changing cultural landscape • Safaris for body and soul • Top spots for you to go this year • Nature's Best Photography • Likoma Island • Jackals • Travelling with teenagers • Skeleton Coast lions... and much more!