The writer’s wife, Kathy, and his daughter, Flo, beside their rented Land Cruiser Prado
MIKE UNWIN
The ‘Smoke That Thunders’ in all its glory, taken from the air
It’s there as we round the corner: a roadblock, just as we’d been warned. My wife is at the wheel. “Leave it running,” I hiss, while we slide to a halt and I race through our mental checklist of dos and don’ts. “Don’t do anything provocative.” This time, the figure barring our way is not in uniform. Nonetheless, his authority is unquestionable — especially as he weighs five tonnes and could flip us like a tortoise. We hold our breath as he gives us the once-over. Thankfully, he seems more concerned with demolishing a roadside mopane than checking our licences and with a flap of his ears he waves us through.