Podcast: Guide Deb Tittle talks hippo with the author, on the banks of the Luangwa River
WILL WHITFORD
Communicating only in hand signals, Alex beckons us to come closer. We crouch down and move slowly along the riverbank. Some 30 metres ahead wading through shallow water are four elephants, one so tiny he fits under his mother’s tummy. We watch mum nudging him gently with her trunk and in the stillness hear their soft rumbles soothing the little baby. “This is how I like seeing elephants,” Alex whispers, “when they’re at peace and undisturbed and don’t even know we’re here.” Moments like this are what walking safaris are all about. For me, it’s the best way to explore the bush, better than a game drive with that inescapable engine drone and the inevitable degree of separation from nature that comes from sitting in a vehicle. On foot, you have to rely on all your senses and on the wits and wisdom of your team to lead you safely through the wilderness.
Our team consists of our armed scout Amon in the lead, guide Alex Phiri and tea-bearer Kaluba at the rear. At 6am, we’d left Tafika camp outside South Luangwa National Park for Chikoko Tree Camp, crossing the mirror-like Luangwa River by canoe. The rest of our journey is to be on foot.