I know how to eat, thank you
Food legislation has its merits, but it seems the voice of the Nanny State is filtering through to front-of-house restaurant staff. Enough with the mollycoddling, says Emma Sturgess
As I teach my toddler to use cutlery, I’m reminded of a recent multicourse lunch I had at a serious restaurant. Handing me my fancy amusebouche, the waiter advised that I use the teaspoon provided. In another restaurant of ambition, a simple cup of espresso was delivered with a side of guidance – stir it, then leave it briefly before drinking. There is, sadly, no risk of my being mistaken for Julia Roberts in Pretty Woman: sizzling hot but new to salad forks. But even if I’d never been in a restaurant in my life, I’d like to think I could handle a spoon.