Lamb is an emblem of springtime as well as Easter lunch. Luckily for us, in the UK, we raise some of the best free-range lamb. The breeds are hardy and suit the terrain well – they are allowed to wander and graze freely most of the time.
However, most of the lamb bought around Easter is from animals that were born in winter after being kept mainly indoors. If you want to avoid this, but still want to enjoy lamb flavours for your Easter lunch, hogget or mutton are great alternatives.
Hogget is a sheep aged one to two years and mutton is a sheep that is two years old or more. Opting for hogget or mutton means the sheep have had time to mature at pasture, and it shows in the meat, with more fat and depth of flavour. It’s a myth that older sheep need to be slow-cooked to produce tender meat – treat prime cuts of hogget and mutton, like chops and steak just like lamb, and serve it pink.
For Easter lunch this year, aim to buy local from British suppliers, and keep a look out at the end of the summer and beginning of autumn for what is genuine spring lamb, born in that season.
Another option worth trying is a by-product of the goat dairy industry – goat meat. It is leaner plus lower in cholesterol and saturated fat than most red meat. Kid goat is similar to lamb, in that the flavour is gentle and more delicate, whereas older goat, just like beef, can take on stronger flavourings like chilli and be cooked for longer.
Slow-roasted mutton shoulder with garlic bean mash & gremolata
Slow-roasted mutton shoulder with garlic bean mash & gremolata, p82
photographs HANNAH TAYLOR-EDDINGTON
Mutton has a deep, almost herby flavour to it. The shoulder has more fat than a leg and lends itself well to being slow-roasted. Paired with a zesty gremolata and a rich bean mash, this is a great centrepiece for your Easter dinner table.
SERVES 6-8 PREP 30 mins plus cooling COOK 5 hr 30 mins MORE EFFORT
1 garlic bulb