Journalist, chef and restaurateur Ravinder Bhogal has written three cookbooks. Her latest, C omfort and Joy: Irresistible Pleasures from a Vegetarian Kitchen (£26, Bloomsbury) champions indulgent plant-based menus. She is chef/owner of Jikoni restaurant in Marylebone, London. @cookinboots
New Year’s Eve is a buoyant occasion. Some like to go to parties or watch the fireworks among the crowds, while others, like me, welcome in a new year by inviting good friends to join them for a special feast. Over the years, I have taken inspiration from many cultures, from China to Italy.
A whole roasted Peking duck is a wonderful idea, as is handmade pasta or boozy tiramisu. But every other year, I return to the flavours and scents of the Middle East, because they always feel opulent and celebratory. Rather than plated individual courses, I’m mostly in favour of my guests congregating around great, abundant platters of sumptuous food that they can help themselves to. Instead of a procession of several fiddly plates, I have found that these four luscious dishes, scented with rosewater, saffron and dried limes, are knockout.
Just add a few flutes of champagne and the people you love to make it a night to remember.
Menu
Confit salmon with tahini, pistachio & herb crust (below)
Slow-braised lamb shanks with dried limes & barberries, p126
Jewelled rice, p127
Rose & pomegranate jellies with cardamom panna cotta, p129
Menu
Confit salmon with tahini, pistachio & herb crust (below)
Slow-braised lamb shanks with dried limes & barberries, p126
Jewelled rice, p127
Rose & pomegranate jellies with cardamom panna cotta, p129
Confit salmon with tahini, pistachio & herb crust
photographs LIAM DESBOIS
Confit is a classic French technique where fish or meat is submerged in oil over a low heat. Cooking salmon in this way means it loses its rawness, but remains meltingly soft. The spiced salt adds flavour and draws out a little liquid from the fish , firming it up slightly so it doesn’t fall apart. It’s served at room temperature, so you can cook the salmon in advance and leave it in the oil.
SERVES 6
PREP 25 mins plus 1 hr chilling
COOK 25 mins EASY
800g side of salmon, skinned and pin-boned
350ml olive oil
For the spiced salt
1 tsp cardamom pods (about
12-14 pods), shells discarded