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Digital Subscriptions > Attitude > September 2019 > Nelson’s column

Nelson’s column

Once Nelson Mandela’s home, the Eastern Cape is a bit off the beaten track but it’s perfect for long hikes as well as exclusive places to stay on huge safari game reserves — both offering an insight into South Africa’s heart
BRANCH OUT: A farmer at work near Q unu, an area Nelson Mandela loved
PEACEFUL: Qunu

“At the heart of the province is a semi-desert, dotted with picturesque villages”

Farmers’ advice is good advice! It says so on my place mat, so it must be true. We’re sitting at the breakfast table at a remote farm near the hamlet of Steytlerville in the South African province of Eastern Cape. It’s 7am and everyone around me is getting ready to leave.

Before the end of the day we should be on the other side of the mountain on the horizon —in Baviaanskloof, which means Baboon’s Canyon.

It is the first day of the Baviaans Camino, a four-day, 93km hike across the wilderness.

Last night, I fell asleep to the racket of an angry wind pulling at the towering gum trees around the farmhouse. I wake to the sound of a herd of merino sheep outside my window, their strangely human bleating sounding like a lynch mob. This close to leaving, and feeling unprepared, everything is starting to sound like a bad omen. Back home, my physiotherapist warned me that I should have started training weeks ago.

Too late. All I could do to prepare myself was drink a bit less and sleep a bit more.

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On the cover: pop’s new renegade Yungblud! Inside: Cheddar Gorgeous, Denek Kania, Sea Coulee, The Shiny Shrimps, Hail Satan & more.