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Digital Subscriptions > delicious. Magazine > April 2018 > “Smoked haddock the way it used to be”

“Smoked haddock the way it used to be”

Severn & Wye Smokery won a delicious. Produce Award for its outstanding, sustainable oak-smoked haddock. Susan Low travels to Gloucestershire to discover how a traditional British ingredient has reclaimed its place as a breakfast of champions


Meet the producer.

The smoke billowing from the kiln is heavy with the aromas of oak forests. It’s a scent that’s almost as ancient as human civilisation, yet as comfortingly familiar as a posh cooked breakfast. His head still wreathed in trails of smoke, Richard Cook of Severn & Wye Smokery wheels a tray of haddock fresh from the kiln. After two-and-a-half hours of smoking the pearly-white flesh has turned a beautiful burnished golden colour.

“When they come out they have a lovely sheen and a firm elasticity. You know when it feels right,” Richard explains as he talks me through the process. The fresh (never frozen) haddock fillets, which are certified as sustainable by the Marine Stewardship Council, are first brined, then the fillets are laid onto metal racks, put in the kiln and smoked over a mix of oak chips from trees felled on the property and chips from whisky barrels.

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About delicious. Magazine

The April issue of delicious. is here to take you on exciting taste adventures. Diana Henry recalls how her passion for French food was love at first bite, James Martin discovers cheesy meatballs in Texas and Ravinder Bhogal cooks exotic sweet and savoury recipes using caramel. Closer to home, Gill Meller puts pigeon back on the menu and Debbie Major flies the flag for the great British macaroon. Plus, Dan Doherty’s new roast chicken, easy midweek meals from your freezer and much, much more.