RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING REBECCA WOOLLARD PHOTOGRAPHS GARETH MORGANS STYLING DAVINA PERKINS
OMELETTE ARNOLD BENNETT
This smoked haddock omelette was created by chefs at London’s Savoy hotel in the 1920s for the author and critic Arnold Bennett, who stayed at the hotel while he was writing Imperial Palace. Bennett, it seems, had strong ideas about what comprised the ideal omelette, so the Savoy chefs created a recipe for him using his favourite ingredients, cooked just the way he liked it. In this version, based on one from Leiths cookery school, whipping the egg whites creates a cross between a soufflé base and an omelette, making it lighter but still indulgent. The punchy horseradish twist cuts through the richness with a welcome hit of heat.