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Digital Subscriptions > delicious. Magazine > April 2018 > Memories ARE MADE OF THIS


It’s uncanny how a particular smell can, in a split second, trigger recollections of times gone by. Or how a much loved cooking utensil can come to symbolise a part of your history you never want to let go of. Here, the delicious. team share the objects that spark edible memories for them – with recipes to go alongside


“There was no sweeter pleasure than spending days at Pop’s side in the bakery”


In our kitchen at home there’s a huge drawer full of pans and baking equipment. Hidden at the back is a slightly battered item, one with which I’d never part: it’s a bread tin, blackened with use, and with our family name embossed on the side so it imprints every loaf. It must be more than 60 years old.

My great-grandma set up Bourdeaux’s bakery three generations ago after her husband Cecil was gassed in World War I and was unable to work. His wife was so ashamed that she forbade all mention of him. We only recently discovered that he lived out his days in an institution. That in itself is shameful now. Great- Granny Bourdeaux had to find a way of supporting the family and she did that by getting my grandfather (Papa or Pop) to train as a baker and run a bakery with his younger brother Brian.

The bakery became famous in Cornwall and Pop was renowned for his pasties (he was once called ‘the pasty king of Cornwall’ on the radio), bread and saffron cakes. When I was a child, there was no sweeter pleasure than spending days at my grandad’s side, watching as he made puff pastry, patting on dabs of fat and rolling the dough back and forth, or helping assistant baker Arthur crimp pasties and shape bread rolls under his cupped palm. But the enduring memory? Those buttercup-yellow loaves, studded with fruit, the smell of a spice from faraway lands filling the bakery as they cooked to perfection in the ovens.

This is a different take on the traditional recipe – no fruit and scented with orange peel – and I’ve called it saffron loaf, rather than saffron cake. As we’re using his heirloom tin, I think Pop would forgive us the tweak – as long as we don’t commit the sacrilege of smearing butter on the slices…

SPECIAL GRANDPARENTS Nanny and Papa Bourdeaux
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About delicious. Magazine

The April issue of delicious. is here to take you on exciting taste adventures. Diana Henry recalls how her passion for French food was love at first bite, James Martin discovers cheesy meatballs in Texas and Ravinder Bhogal cooks exotic sweet and savoury recipes using caramel. Closer to home, Gill Meller puts pigeon back on the menu and Debbie Major flies the flag for the great British macaroon. Plus, Dan Doherty’s new roast chicken, easy midweek meals from your freezer and much, much more.