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Digital Subscriptions > Lonely Planet Traveller (UK) > April 2018 > ALTERNATIVE City BREAKS

ALTERNATIVE City BREAKS

Take the unexpected path with our countdown of 10 offbeat European cities

10 TRIESTE, ITALY

Castello di Miramare perches on a headland on the northern edge of Trieste, overlooking the Adriatic Sea
PHOTOGRAPHS: CHRISTIAN HALL/AWL, TOM GUSTAVSEN, MASSIMO BORCHI/4CORNERS, HELGE BIAS/4CORNERS

WHY GO?

If you’re an indecisive type when it comes to picking which country to visit, Trieste is a godsend: an Italian city, surrounded on almost all of its landward sides by Slovenia, and once the main seaport of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. With its mix of Latin, Germanic and Slavic influences, could this be the most European city of all?

WHAT AM I DOING THERE?

Take the vast, seaside Piazza dell’ Unità Italiana as your starting point to stroll Trieste’s streets. The graceful 18th-century grid north of the square forms the Borgo Teresiano, with the Canal Grande at its heart. Be sure to continue north along the coast to the fanciful white Castello di Miramare. It was the mid-19th-century home of the Austrian Archduke Maximilian, who was briefly and disastrously made Emperor of Mexico (admission £9; castello-miramare.it).

FUN FACT

Trieste was briefly its miniature ‘free territ under UN supervision WWII, until it was div between Italy and the

WHAT’S THE ONE THING ISHOULDN’T MISS?

With a Viennese-inspired café culture to draw upon, Triestini drink twice as much coffee as the already amply caffeinated average Italian. Make sure to block off time at a café table – Caffè San Marco is a gorgeous, literature-imbued survivor from just before WWI (caffesanmarcotrieste.eu) – and join in the local coffee own culture. An espresso is ory’ ‘un nero’ here, while a after macchiato is ‘un capo’.

WHERE AM I EATING AND DRINKING?

Seafood is the highlight of Trieste menus. For every higherend table, such as Al Bagatto (fivecourse menu £55; albagatto.it), you’ll find many humbler places offering cicchetti (Venetian-style small dishes) and seafood buffets. Osteria Salvagente is a wood-panelled place dishing out the likes of breaded sardines and squid-ink spaghetti (mains from £7; Via dei Burlo 1).

WHERE SHOULD I STAY?

In the Borgo Teresiano district, the 12 rooms at Forvm Boutique Hotel are plush, with sultry lighting (from £90; forvmboutiquehotel.it).

9 OSLO, NORWAY

American-style sub rolls are paired with a choice of more than 200 beers at Hopyard in the Mathallen food hall
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About Lonely Planet Traveller (UK)

In the April issue… book a Great Escape to Central Thailand for Bangkok street eats, island beaches and jungle secrets; explore New York City by level, from underground to sky-high; get to know Chile's under-appreciated capital Santiago; discover our pick of ten alternative city breaks across Europe; see Japan's cherry blossom season in full swing in Tokyo and Kyoto; and much more
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