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All eyes on Rwanda

Sue Watt finds outs
Guhonda is the dominant silverback in the Sabyinyo group, which resides in Volcanoes National Park. At 46 years old, he is one of the oldestrecorded mountain gorillas. Photo by Will Whitford

Kurira was the first silverback I ever saw. Like a giant Sumo wrestler, he completely stunned me - sauntering around chomping at thistles and nettles, oblivious to their thorns and stings and seemingly to our presence. But for all Kurira’s majesty, it wasn’t him I’d been desperate to see back in 2004. It was his famous three-month-old babies Byishimo and Impano, the first twins to survive since gorilla conservation began in the 1960s. Being a twin myself, I was longing to see them but I knew it was a tough ask.

Having trekked five hours to reach the Susa group through dense rainforest and steep, slippery slopes, our permitted hour flew past as we watched enthralled by their human-like family scenarios - toddlers playing and squabbling, teenagers sulking and flirting, mums preening and protecting their babies. Yet the newborn twins had eluded us. As we were leaving, young mum Nyabitondore burst out from the bushes right beside me and scurried past, disappearing almost as quickly as she’d emerged, with her two fluffy little babies stuck to her breasts.

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Travel Africa
October-December 2017 (80)
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Altri articoli in questo numero


Travel Africa
Our appreciation for Africa
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Issue 80, October-December 2017
travelafricamag.com
Our latest stories, galleries, ideas, blogs and interviews online now. Compiled by Jessica Derwent
Storytellers
Our contributors share tales from their travels
SUBSCRIBE!
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Indaba
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The timeless attraction of Africa
The way in which we travel may be in constant flux, but some things remain the same. Brian Jackman reflects on Africa’s enduring appeal
Planning your adventure
Jo Austin investigates the influences that have changed the way in which people plan, prepare and book their trip
Changes on the ground
The African safari experience has diversified at a great pace in recent decades. But what have been the most significant developments, and what does this tell us about what it could be like in the future? Justin Fox discusses
Does Africa offer good value?
Travel has never been easier, and more places across Africa are accessible than ever before. But as the cost of going on safari increases, Richard Trillo considers where your money is going
Looking to the future
What will safari be like in years to come? Perhaps we will be moving around in driverless Land Cruisers with robots for guides, or setting off on a drone safari above the Great Migration? Aaron Gekoski lets his imagination run wild
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We asked innovative architects Niel Crafford and Arno Pieters of PlanEco to forecast how a camp may be structured in decades to come
The world view
When it comes to the bigger picture, Africa is just a small player in global tourism. But why is this, and what can be done to change it, asks Graham Boynton
Reflections of Africa
Longstanding reader Dr Martin Briggs reminisces about his travels in the 1960s and ‘70s
INDABA
20/20 VISION
What are the hot new places you should be visiting in the future? Mark Stratton has consulted the travel trade, journalists, conservationists and others to compile a list of 20 extraordinary, off-the-beaten-track destinations with great potential
Power to the people
The Northern Rangelands Trust is a pioneering partnership of local communities looking to invigorate a vast swathe of northern Kenya, with wildlife conservation and tourism at its heart. Does this signal a new way forward for rural areas across Africa? Harriet Constable reports
Sand and deliver
2017 is the International Year of Sustainable Tourism for Development, a trend that has gained momentum over the past 20 years. Since 1997, the options on the continent’s coastline have improved considerably, with beach escapes becoming increasingly accessible, diverse, ethical and eco-conscious
Footprints in the sand
The past two decades have seen a steep rise in experiential travel. Fiona McIntosh sets off on an awe-inspiring trek in the NamibRand Nature Reserve. She describes the feeling of being immersed in this stunning desert region and encountering its smallest residents
Senses and sensibility
The new Super Sensory Safari in Zimbabwe's Mana Pools National Park demonstrates how innovative ideas and specialist guiding are enriching the experience of the modern-day safari.
Room service
As the industry has matured, standards in bush lodgings have improved and the range of options is enticing; we’re spoilt for choice! But what is the difference between a lodge and a bush camp, a tented camp or a mobile safari? And how do you know which is best suited to you?
How is accommodation evolving?
Increasingly, lodges are striving to achieve a balance between luxury and authenticity, and to ensure that tourism is beneficial to the local community, wildlife and surrounding habitats
Team players
Running a camp in remote areas is no easy feat, and is often underappreciated – but the impact of your visit on the staff is significant
Breaking the boundaries
Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, bridging South Africa and Botswana, was the first peace park. Steve and Ann Toon have visited every year since 1997, and spent eight weeks there earlier this year. Here, they reflect on how it has changed, the challenges it has faced and what has made it an enduring and captivating success. Photographs by the writers
Slicker cities
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CONSERVATION
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Peter Borchert takes a look at the changing nature of African conservation today, examining its progress and looking at the role of tourism in future efforts to protect our natural heritage
AWF Bulletin: In the name of conservation, we’ll have a school
Classroom Africa works with communities to build new schools that incorporate conservation education
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