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THIS IS AFRICA

SPACE

BY BRIAN JACKMAN

At Namiri Plains in the eastern Serengeti, the sense of space is intoxicating. A sea of grass and cloud shadows, rising and falling all the way to a horizon so wide and far away you can almost sense the curve of the earth as it rolls through the sky to meet the rising sun. Together with the animals that live here, it is why you come to Africa. A magic beyond price, that steals up on you and takes you unawares. A kind of madness, like the beginning of a love affair, that makes you wish you could drive for ever among the lonely inselbergs and never want the days to end.

In our increasingly busy world such emptiness is hard to find, but Africa has room to spare. Botswana’s Makgadikgadi is such a place — a desert of glittering soda pans the size of Switzerland, in the heart of the Kalahari. I went there once with Ralph Bousfield, the owner of Jack’s Camp, who took me to see Chapman’s Baobab, a giant tree whose seven spires dominated this ancient landscape since the Stone Age until it fell in 2016.

As we leant against its massive trunk, I still remember his words as we watched the sun go down. “One day, not far off,” he said, looking out into the boundless desert beyond, “space will be the world’s greatest luxury. That is why we are so lucky to live here, where there is still room to be yourself, to sit under a tree and count the stars.”

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Travel Africa
Sept-Nov 2020
VISUALIZZA IN NEGOZIO

Altri articoli in questo numero


regulars
Karibu
Well, what a year it has been!
YEARNING
At home in Dorset, whenever I watch the swallows departing
WILDLIFE
From Kenya to the Great Karoo, no matter where you
STAYING IN TOUCH
There’s much us wildlife-lovers have missed during lockdown. But are there positives to take from the experience? How has this changed the way we will view Africa in the future?
climate
CLIMATE CONTROL
How the weather varies across the continent
TO FLY OR NOT TO FLY?
The global lockdown has reminded us that we need to be kinder to our planet. Undoubtably this will impact our travel behaviour going forward, yet some trips — especially a safari in Africa — are critical to protecting our environment
WILDLIFE AND THE WEATHER
In the natural world, the climate governs everything. How animals adapt their behaviour to cope with seasonal shifts is a matter of survival — some have developed truly remarkable tricks — and it’s only going to get evermore challenging
HOW WEATHER SHAPES NATURE
Few places demonstrate how an infusion of time and climatic forces shape a landscape as clearly as Namibia. One of the joys of visiting is seeing this process in action
seasons
SOUTH AFRICA SOUTH AFRICA’S
South Africa is a country of striking climatic and altitudinal contrasts
COLOUR ME BEAUTIFUL
In a glorious celebration of seasonal change, the Northern Cape bursts into colour when spring arrives. Here’s why you should plan to join the annual ‘petal pilgrimage’ to Namaqualand
EMERALD SMILES
Why a safari in the rainy season is not to be missed
FLOOD WARNING
Like some giant lung, the Okavango Delta fills and empties to a slow rhythm in lockstep with the cycle of the seasons, fed by rain in distant lands and dispersing its water into the Kalahari sands, its path shaped and blocked by two geological faults.
MOOD SWINGS
The ebb and flow of the rains influences the personality of the Victoria Falls, so knowing what it will be like at different times of year can help
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migrations
LIFE ON THE MOVE
A collection of articles that look at the Great Migration of the Serengeti-Mara… and beyond
THE GREAT MIGRATION: how it works
The climate is at the heart of the migration pattern in the Serengeti and Masai Mara: the rains dictating where the wildebeest go and when, as they follow their noses in a neverending search for food.
FOLLOWING THE HERD
Have wildebeest, will travel. While the river crossings may have the biggest appeal, the downside is this results in overcrowding in a finite space as vehicles jostle for the best view.
SHOULD I LEAD… …OR SHOULD I FOLLOW?
Recent research suggests that the mantle of leadership rotates around the herd, based on an individual's motivation
EYE OF THE STORM
The idea of a high and a low season, particularly in the Masai Mara Conservancies, is patently absurd
Conserving conservancies
Mitigating the impact of the Covid-19 lockdown
BEYOND THE MIGRATION
The great appeal of the Serengeti-Mara lies in the year-round drama and exceptional wildlife sightings on offer across this vast ecosystem.
LIFE ON THE SOUTHERN PLAINS
Keziah is basking in the sun surrounded by six adorable, sleepy cubs
ALONE IN THE SERENGETI
All the images in this feature (unless stated) were taken by photographer Paul Joynson-Hicks between May and July 2020.
ANIMAL EXODUS
Migration isn’t just about wildebeest and river crossings — all across Africa movements of wildlife are occurring at any given time, as a variety of animals, big and small, go in search of food and water. Here’s a selection of the most impressive, to add to your wildlife-watching wishlist
FLIGHT PATHS
Check any field guide to Africa's birdlife and you'll find many migratory species that spend much of their life in Europe and Asia. Others move from one part of Africa to another, or make epic journeys around its coasts. It makes for a rich birdwatching experience.
FLOW MOTION
South Africa is a marine wildlife-lover’s dream, with opportunities to enjoy close encounters with many of the world’s most exciting species, drawn to its waters in abundance. How these migrations are influenced by climate has become more noticeable
forests
THE GREEN HEART: trees of life
Trees tend to get in the way on safari. They hide more exciting things like leopards, gorillas and red-crested turacos. But take the time to simply sit in an African forest — senses wide open — and you’ll experience something just as rewarding as an encounter with a great ape or big cat.
GROWING THE GREAT GREEN WALL
An ambitious project in the Sahel is proving how vital trees are, and gives hope in the battle to protect the environment
LIFE IN THE GREAT FOREST
The Congo Basin rainforest is a massive carbon sink, possibly storing more carbon than the Amazon or Indonesian rainforests. Our global climate depends on it.
HIGHLIGHTING THE LINKS BETWEEN CONSERVATION AND PUBLIC HEALTH
Strong African leadership can ensure pandemic response includes conservation goals
DEATH OF A SILVERBACK
The Nkuringo gorilla group significantly aided tourism in the misty hills of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest
BRANCHING OUT
Within Africa’s forests there is a wealth of life to discover and activities to enjoy. So, for your next safari, head for the trees. Here’s where to start
WOODLORE
Paying more attention to the diversity of trees you’ll see on safari can enrich your experience and teach you a lot more about the wildlife you are there to see. To get you started, here’s our guide to a few of Africa’s most iconic trees
Thomas Baines and the giant baobabs
Many visitors to Botswana seek out the iconic Baines’ Baobabs, but who was the man after whom they are named?
water
WATERWAYS: lifeblood of the continent
Only a tiny fraction of Earth’s water — less than 0.02 per cent — is contained in lakes and rivers, but the impact of these waterways and wetlands is huge.
SPLASHING OUT
Africa’s lakes and rivers are awash with adventure potential. Here’s our pick of activities to whet your appetite
LIFE OF A WATER HOLE
Every safari-goer has spent hours at a waterhole, watching and waiting for wildlife to come and go, knowing that all creatures need water to survive. But how do these lifegiving pans came to be, and how do they evolve through the seasons?
IT'S RAINING FROGS
Why these fascinating amphibians deserve your attention – and why they are critical to a healthy environment
SAFARI
Ideas and advice to help you plan your trip
What it means to be GREEN
In a short period of time, there’s been a revolutionary improvement in environmental awareness at camps across Africa.
GREEN ROOTS
Most lodges and camps now have a strong environmental ethos at their heart; particularly the newer facilities.
Build. Enjoy. Dismantle. Repeat
Many camps in remote areas of some parks are not accessible during the rains, meaning they can’t operate year-round. So what happens to them during the off -season?
DOING THEIR BIT
Minimising their impact on the environment is at the