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Digital Subscriptions > Lonely Planet Traveller (UK) > April 2017 > CALIFORNIA DREAMIN’

CALIFORNIA DREAMIN’

IT’S BEEN 50 YEARS SINCE THE SUMMER OF LOVE PUT SAN FRANCISCO IN THE SPOTLIGHT. BUT FROM ORGANIC FARMERS’ MARKETS TO OPEN-AIR STREET PARTIES, AND A STORE WHERE EVERYTHING IS FREE, THE LEGACY OF THOSE GOLDEN DAYS STILL LIVES ON ACROSS THE BAY AREA

SET FOR SAN FRANCISCO

DEEP INSIDE GOLDEN GATE PARK, the soundtrack of modern day San Francisco – the frenetic patter of laptops in techie-filled coffee shops, streets rolling with Uber traffic – seems far, far away. A more primal sound beats out near the Conservatory of Flowers, the park’s Victorian-era greenhouse. On this spot known colloquially as Hippie Hill, drum circles congregate in a fug of marijuana smoke most days. One afternoon, a lone musician is tapping out a rhythm on a homemade drum, fashioned from PVC piping and emblazoned with the words ‘Waste not, want not’. Reclining on the slope, he soaks up the last light, the golden Californian rays playing on his long hair and beard.

Kaveh Mahdavi on his way to band practice.

Fifty years ago, Golden Gate Park and the Haight-Ashbury neighbourhood next to it became the epicentre for a movement that would change the world. The Summer of Love sprung up in 1967 like a field of wild flowers. Tens of thousands of young people from across America descended on this area of less than a square mile. Casting off the corseted fashions and attitudes of their hometowns, they came to embrace the liberated atmosphere. Sitting cross-legged and catatonic on the grass, or dancing and swaying, they listened to bands like Jefferson Airplane hold free open-air gigs in the park.

Michael Grauer and Mark Souza with their vintage campervan in Golden Gate Park.

At the foot of Hippie Hill, the tree where Janis Joplin serenaded onlookers still stands. While much of today’s San Francisco would be unrecognisable to Janis, this area remains a time warp. A mint-green VW campervan pulls up next to the Conservatory of Flowers. Out steps local Mark Souza, wearing a ’60s rock band T-shirt and a velvet jacket, joined by his partner Michael Grauer and their four Australian Shepherd dogs. ‘We came to appreciate the dahlias and the sunset,’ says Mark. ‘We like to be free, and the van means we can hit the road – all six of us – whenever we like.’

Giant legs adorn a shop on Haight Street.

A short amble away, Haight Street, lined with record stores and shops selling bongs, rock crystals and hand-dyed psychedelia, is similarly full of bohemian romantics. Holding a guitar in one hand, Kaveh Mahdavi is on his way to band practice when he stops for a smoke beside a mural to Grateful Dead frontman Jerry Garcia. Kaveh used to work for IBM until, like so many generations before him, he dropped out and bought a one-way ticket to San Francisco. ‘I was attracted to the neighbourhood because it’s a little weird around the edges,’ he says. ‘People talk about the energy of certain places. Something drew me here.’

Colourful merchandise at one of Haight Street’s psychedelic emporiums
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About Lonely Planet Traveller (UK)

In the April issue… Join us as we celebrate the 100th issue of the magazine, and look forward to the next hundred. For the occasion, we've found a unique destination for our Great Escape – Madagascar, an island that is almost a world in itself. Other features take in film directors' favourite shooting spots in Paris; the Bay Area of California on the 50th anniversary of the Summer of Love; and Lisbon, a city best understood through the Portuguese emotion of 'saudade'. Plus, discover our magazine staff's most memorable moments in putting together 100 issues, and much more
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