While the delicious. team are testing recipes, they’re often debating the best ways to do things, as well as answering cooking questions that arise in the test kitchen. What’s the best way to use up all those home-grown courgettes? Why do loaf cakes so often go awry during baking? What is pin-boning? And what’s the deal with organic food? It’s the kind of information you won’t find anywhere else, and it will take your cooking to the next level

CANNY COOK

USE UP A GLUT OF…

COURGETTES

BY THANE PRINCE

Pick your courgettes when young, crisp and sweet (18-20cm is best).

For FRITTERS, lightly salt sliced or grated courgettes, then rinse and pat dry with kitchen paper. This will give you a crisp finish when frying.

Courgettes make good CHUTNEY. Simmer 750g sliced courgettes with 250g chopped dates, 500g chopped onion, spices of your choice, 300ml vinegar and 125g sugar until thick. Put in sterilised jars while warm. After opening, keep in the fridge.

Or try SICILIAN COURGETTES. Halve 4 medium courgettes, then hollow out the flesh and chop (retain the shells). Meanwhile, fry 2 chopped shallots, 2 chopped garlic cloves and 2 tbsp pine nuts in 1 tbsp olive oil over a gentle heat until golden. Add 2 tbsp currants and the courgette flesh, then fry for 10 minutes until softened. Season and add the grated zest of 1 lemon.

Stuff the shells and put in a baking dish with a splash of water. Top with breadcrumbs and drizzle with olive oil, then bake at 200°C/ 180°C fan/gas 6 for 20-30 minutes.

For a non-vegetarian variation, you can stir anchovy fillets or chopped ham into the filling as well.

THE KNOWLEDGE

Aromatic edible leaves

The quick way to add aroma, depth and character to your dishes

BAY LEAVES A member of the laurel family, bay leaves’ fragrant flavour is more intense when dried than fresh. Scrunch before use to release flavour.

ADD TO… stews, braises, soups and marinades. Or infuse in hot milk/cream for ice cream, pannacotta, crème brûlée and rice pudding.

LIME LEAVES Their aromatic citrus notes complement other local flavourings such as galangal and lemongrass. Available dried as well as fresh, they’re usually added whole to impart flavour, then removed before eating. Or remove the hard central rib, then finely slice.