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Digital Subscriptions > Travel Africa > April-June 2016 (74) > BEAST OF THE EAST


Most people travel to Kenya for its wildlife or stunning coastline, but its cuisine should be a draw for the adventurous foodie, says Funmi Oyatogun
Funfunmi Oyatogun ( and Lyra Aoko (

The Kenyan capital is full of character: crammed buses and modern skyscrapers alongside roadside fruit-sellers and plenty of good grub. Yet its food scene, bursting with history, flavour and a contemporary verve, is often overlooked. Traditional food such as nyama choma and ugali can be found in grill stations and vibanda (or ‘food shacks’). Growing chains such as Artcaffé and Java House cater to an increasing Western appetite. The most-famous of all of Nairobi’s dining experiences is The Carnivore, famed for its exotic meats: pork ribs, crocodile, ostrich, rabbit and bull’s balls all feature on the menu, accompanied by an array of exotic sauces and salads. There are many low-key restaurants, too, serving everything from sugarcane juice to chapati and the Kikuyu delicacy,githeri. Kenya’s food reflects where it has come from and where it’s going. Without doubt, this country is becoming the beast of East Africa’s culinary scene.

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