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NICE The French city with Italian soul

Cook and writer Rosa Jackson fell for the distinctive cuisine and beguiling character of Nice a decade ago – and she still can’t get enough of the city. Follow in her footsteps, taking in everything from street food stands to natural wine bars

It’s 10am and an expectant queue is forming in front of Marie Thérèse Pisano’s stand at the Cours Saleya food market. On display is an array of local specialities, including the caramelised onion tart known as pissaladière, and petits farcis: stuffed vegetables no bigger than a golf ball. The loyal customers, however, have something else in mind. Eventually it appears, hoisted by muscular arms – a giant copper tray bearing a deep golden pancake with crisp, almost blackened edges. Marie Thérèse begins, with dexterity, to tear off pieces using a small, widebladed knife and piles them into paper cones, which she hands out to the hungry crowd clustered round.

This is socca, a beloved street food snack made with chickpea flour that reveals much about the local character of France’s fifthlargest city. Nice might have a glamorous reputation epitomised by the rococo Hotel Negresco – a pink-domed wedding cake of a building filled with the works of artists who were drawn here by the brilliant year-round light – but its traditions run deep in the rocky soil of the nearby mountains.

The gang at Chez Pipo
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About Delicious Magazine

Celebrate spring with delicious. magazine this April. Enjoy Felicity Cloake’s perfect menu, Valentine Warner’s gin-based recipes, The Ivy’s classic shepherd’s pie, cheese-free vegetarian recipes and top curries from around the world. For baking inspiration, try Mary Berry’s afternoon tea, Chetna Makan’s pistachio and cardamom cake or a zesty lemon scone. And to top everything, there’s a 16-page bread special with our 10 best bread recipes.
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