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How panettone became the new Christmas pud

This light, citrussy, fruited bread from Italy has been welcomed with open arms in Britain and is well on its way to becoming a Christmas staple (look out, dark heavy puddings). Mina Holland travelled to the famous Galup bakery in Piedmont to learn a few trade secrets
Gleaming with sugar crystals and crowned with almonds, panettone has become a festive classic worldwide

“In Pinerolo, you don’t ask for a panettone, you ask for a Galup,” says Giuseppe Bernocco, owner of this “minor industrial” panettone producer some 50km outside Turin. Galup is a household name here – a Hoover, perhaps, for sweet-toothed Italians. Giuseppe bought the company in 2013, nostalgic for a time when Christmas simply meant gathering people for good food and games, without today’s commercial pressures. “Panettone unifies people around the idea of a real, old-fashioned Italian Christmas,” he says.

Panettone, the golden, fruit-studded bread and traditional festive confection of Piedmont, has become a mainstay – not just across the boot-shaped country, but internationally, too. In the UK, Sainsbury’s confirms that sales have continued to rise year-on-year, and at London’s Selfridges, panettone outsold Christmas pudding by 2:1 in 2017 – perhaps it’s perceived as a lighter, easier alternative to steaming Britain’s traditional Christmas dessert for hours on end.

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About Delicious Magazine

Make Christmas and New Year your best ever with the December issue of delicious. magazine. Festive shopping’s a breeze with our last-minute gifts, one-stop drinks advice and best-buys taste test. You’ll also find Michel Roux’s brunch, Gill Meller’s goose with black pudding, Matt Tebbutt’s soy-braised pork and a beautiful pie from Calum Franklin. Fancy a lie in on the big day? Try our all-in-one-tray lunch or make-ahead turkey dinner. With Gaz Oakley’s vegan feast, Brontë Aurell’s Scandi classics, brilliant yuletide bakes and our panto recipe special, this is the only magazine you’ll need this year. And don’t miss our extra cocktail desserts collection, plus you could win a luxury cruise for 2019. Here’s to a delicious. Christmas!