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Filling a weekend in Tallinn

Embark on a medieval quest for atmospheric restaurants and hidden bars in the historysaturated lanes of Estonia’s capital, one of Europe’s most beguiling walled cities.
Tallinn’s 1404 Town Hall, with its Old Thomas weather vane

Friday evening

1 ST OLAF’S CHURCH

Once the world’s tallest building, the Oleviste Church is a great place to start as there’s a superb observation deck, halfway up its 124m structure, with views of the Old Town. The church is dedicated to the 11th-century King Olaf II of Norway, but linked in local lore with another Olaf, the church’s architect who fell to his death from its tower (oleviste.ee; Lai 50; 10am–6pm; tower £1.40).

2 TCHAIKOVSKY

Put on your fnest and head to Tchaikovsky, located in a glassed-in pavilion at the heart of Hotel Telegraaf. It offers a dazzling tableau of blinged-up chandeliers, gilt frames and greenery. Service is formal and faultless, as is the classic Franco-Russian menu, all accompanied by live chamber music (telegraaf hotel.com; Vene 9; 12pm–3pm & 6pm–11pm Mon–Fri, 1pm–11pm Sat & Sun; mains from £11).

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