An inn in Yunomine Onsen – a hot spring resort on the route to Koguchi. The hot springs were discovered in the 4th century, making it the oldest onsen (hot spring) town in Japan
Photographs JONATHAN STOKES @jonstokes1
IN THE FOOT HILLS OF THE KII PENINSULA, it's raining - hard. Fat raindrops clatter through the trees, hitting the ground with a sound like marbles being dropped on slate. Rivulets of water tumble over the trail and a film of white cloud curls over the treetops, casting the forest in a gauzy, silver glow. The scent of damp earth hangs in the air. Ahead, a path tapers into the mist and three walkers trudge past giant cedars a hundred feet high. None of the hikers appear downtrodden by the rain; they seem positively cheery, chatting merrily as they tramp the leaf-strewn path, pointing out birds swooping and darting among the trees. Like all good pilgrims on the Kumano KodO, they know that endurance and enlightenment are two experiences that often go hand in hand.