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LIMA

High-end eats, cutting-edge street art, exquisite colonial-era mansions reimagined for bright new creative age: Peru’s capital is no longer a traveller’s backwater but a Latin American luminary. Words: Michael Parker Stainback
ILLUSTRATION: KERRY HYNDMAN

Lima in June is a cloudy affair; the winter sun may not emerge for 10 days straight and it drizzles every day, sometimes all day. Yet dreary weather frames a city where the welcome is warm, where centuries-old plazas and palaces feature impeccable, buzzy dining rooms or astounding art collections. It’s easy to sense how Spanish invaders, a complex indigenous culture, and later waves of immigration gave Lima its diversity and challenges, its colours and fascination. In twisting lanes and squares, chatty crowds seek warmth in cafes and watering holes. Sit down and you start to hear attitudes — some carping but most optimistic. It’s the sound of an ancient city marching straight into the future.

NEIGHBOURHOOD

IMAGES: ALAMY; GETTY
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About National Geographic Traveller (UK)

This month, we ditch the jeep to discover Africa from a different perspective. Whether on foot, by boat or hot air balloon, we’re showcasing the continent’s wild side on an active safari across Kenya, Tanzania, Botswana and more. We go north of Hadrian’s Wall in Northumberland; discover Japan’s Tohoku region; and spend a long weekend in Vilnius. Other highlights this issue include Lima, Fife, Budapest, San Francisco and Turin, while our photo story unearths the tradition of gold panning in Costa Rica.