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BUDAPEST

In a city stuffed with attractions, find your own favourite pocket of Budapest — be it the lively Jewish Quarter, the gleaming battlements of Buda or Hungary’s very own Champs-Élysées. Words: Adrian Phillips

NEIGHBOURHOOD

ILLUSTRATION: KERRY HYNDMAN

Budapest has come a long way in a short time. The Iron Curtain fell just over 25 years ago, but Budapest has since emerged as one of the world’s favourite citybreak destinations. Hotels abound, service is excellent, vibrant festivals provide year-round celebrations, and vegetarians can finally find more than fried cheese or battered mushrooms on restaurant menus. Behind all this, though, is a history of highs and lows, the pride and anguish of a country that’s faced occupation and terror but has repeatedly found the strength to pick itself up. It’s a past indelibly scored on the national consciousness, and — if you reach for it — can be felt in the very bricks and mortar of the city’s varied neighbourhoods, from the lofty Castle District and the grand environs of Andrássy út to the transformed Jewish Quarter.

Fisherman’s Bastion; traditional cake at Gerbeaud
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About National Geographic Traveller (UK)

Walk this way: Lofty passes through volcanic lunar landscapes; ancient pilgrim pathways strewn with churches and ruins; sumptuous forested trails opening out onto vineyards. a rambler’s reward is culture, ambience and wild scenery on the walking routes through Italy, France and Spain