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René Redzepi put Copenhagen on the global dining map. Can the new spinoff from Noma alum Kristian Baumann keep it there?
OUT OF THE BLUE: Baumann inside 108; his smaller offshoot of Noma is doing so well, it just started opening seven days a week.


LATE ON the night of September 20, Kristian Baumann’s friends threw him a birthday party. They cranked up the AC/DC and passed around glasses of sparkling wine, along with bacon-wrapped sausages from a hot dog truck parked outside. Two cakes appeared, and a colleague set out a pot of curry so spicy it had a few celebrants looking longingly at the harbor waters nearby. Through it all, Baumann—the chef of Copenhagen’s hottest new restaurant—kept a smile on his face and gamely thanked well-wishers for the surprise. But his slumping shoulders told another story. He might have been turning 30, but what he really wanted was to go to bed.

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