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On an isolated peak in Swaziland, a South African designer offers guests an antidote to modern living


SHORTLY AFTER dawn, Christiaan Erasmus dons a cashmere poncho and steps into the clouds that envelop his mountain retreat. We are on one of the highest points of Swaziland’s Malolotja mountain range, along the country’s northwestern border with South Africa. The 51-year-old stands on a boulder and watches the mists recede. “Welcome to the Sultan’s Spiritual Retreat!” he exclaims in a cheerful Afrikaans accent. “Let’s get some coffee.” I follow him down the mountainside to the scattered huts that make up this remote retreat in Nkhaba, about 20 miles north of the capital, Mbabane.

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