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Perfect poulet

Spring has arrived in the French countryside. Neon bright leaf buds sunlit against dark grey thunderheads, tender green grass growing like a lush carpet, fields striped with yellow rape. In April, weeks of rain had swollen the Saône river, a tributary of the Rhône. We drove across the bridge at Chalon-sur-Saône, into the flat alluvial plain of Bresse. Hamlets of low timber-and-brick farmhouses huddled in the downpour; low-lying fields had become swamped, turning them into mud lakes. In the fields, white chickens—the famous Poulet de Bresse—pecked at worms. Poulet de Bresse are distinguished by being the only chickens in France to have their own appellation d’origine contrôllé. They have white feathers, blue legs and red combs making them practically the emblem of the French Republic. According to the strict criteria of their premium label, each bird must be raised in an open field with at least 10m2 of space, fed on cereal grown only in the Bresse region and be fattened in crates for their last two weeks.

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About Prospect Magazine

In Prospect’s June issue: Bronwen Maddox lays out the case for Britain to stay in Europe—the position taken by the magazine. Mikhail Gorbachev explains his hopes for Russia, suggesting that the claim democracy is bad for Russia is “balderdash.” Rachel Sylvester looks at the Conservative Party and explores what might happen to the Tories after the EU referendum. Also in this issue: Nicholas Shaxson and Alex Cobham unpick the world of hidden money and what Britain can do about tax havens. Neil Kinnock argues that Labour isn’t making progress under Jeremy Corbyn and Jason Burke examines Islamic State and the networks that underpin their attacks. Plus Stephen Bayley asks was BritArt any good?
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