“Bring your fat bike,” was the response I received from an Instagram user when I asked about trail conditions in Iceland a week before we set off. “She does not recommend cycling yet,” was the reply from another friend. “Do you have a backup plan?” he continued. Two problems – no fat bike, and no backup plan. Unseasonably high snow levels in Iceland’s highlands, the highest for 15 years, were beginning to look like they could be a problem.

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