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Tomb raider

Alone in the Horn of Africa, Nick Galpine finds himself exploring the backstreets and cemeteries of the dusty Eritrean capital of Asmara

Dear Reader,

The plan to explore Eritrea soon became bogged down in government control-freakery. Leaving Asmara involved a tortuous process of applying for travel permits and even then there were only two or three other places you were allowed to go. My wings were firmly clipped, so I got to know the city well.

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