make it special.
CALUM FRANKLIN’S fish pie masterclass
It’s fish pie season again - hooray! Chef Calum Franklin, the king of pies, shares his ultimate recipe from his debut cookbook, along with two Franklinesque twists and his tips to achieve perfection. There’s another key ingredient, he says: a good pie begins with a happy kitchen
WORDS: PHOEBE STONE
THE THEORY OF PIE Calum works with senior pie chef Nokx Majozi (above) to create new ideas using traditional tools and methods
UPPER CRUST The ultimate fish pie
RECIPES CALUM FRANKLIN PHOTOGRAPHS JOHN CAREY ART DIRECTION AND DESIGN PETER MOFFAT AND MARIE O’SHEPHERD
For Calum Franklin, the pie (never use the word humble!) represents a world of creative possibilities. “Making a supertasty filling comes first,” he says, “then when you wrap that in pastry, you have a blank canvas to create on.” He’s talking about the elaborate pastry patterns (such as those in the sketches here) that have made his pies famous. But that success isn’t just down to him, he insists: “I give my team free rein to come up with something beautiful.”
Design-mad Calum grew up in London, and the city’s many and varied architectural details provide ample inspiration for his crusty creations. Staff are sent on expeditions for ideas, and they get them from everything from door handles to stained glass. Calum reckons that giving the staff that independence pays off: “Putting their own stamp on something brings out people’s pride in their work.”
Cultivating talent and creating a supportive atmosphere is what it’s all about for Calum. “I respect regimented kitchens but ours is different - we treat each other like family.” It’s a close-knit one at that (two of the team attended Calum’s wedding) and he’s dedicated a section in his debut book, The Pie Room (out this month), to his chefs. “None of them knew that chapter was in there until they saw the book,” he says. Why did he do it? “We built this together. It’s my thank you to them.”
Calum hopes his book will dispel any fears about making pastry and popularise the idea of making a pie for someone. “A pie is a lovely gift - it’s handcrafted and takes a bit of love to create.” But there’s a downside: “Nowadays, people get upset if I come to visit and don’t bring a pie!”