Head south to the islands of Sicily and Sardinia, and you’ll find wines of an entirely different character to those of the north of Italy. You may find some in your local supermarket, and specialist importers will certainly have more listed in their portfolios, so if you’re inclined, there’s a world of island white wine waiting to be enjoyed.
So what makes the white wines of southern Italy (and its islands) different from those of the north? Quite simply, the climate. Both Sicily and Sardinia are much hotter than the mainland, although they benefit from cooling sea breezes coming off the waters that surround them. Grapes ripen faster, generate more honeyed sweetness and retain plenty of flavour. The resulting wines are richly aromatic and fuller-bodied, with tropical fruit flavours and a delicate mineral quality. Grapes for the production of island wines are generally indigenous to the Italian islands themselves, often in small artisan wineries. In both Sicily and Sardinia, producers get together to form cooperatives to make their wines collectively. By selecting the best grapes and pooling expertise, costs are controlled and quality enhanced. As a result, Sardinia has its Vermentino di Gallura DOCG and Sicily its Menfiand Etna DOC – all of which you will see over the page – and more.