SALLY SHALAM
A seal popped its head above the water in Porthgain’s harbour, instantly brightening a damp morning. Less than eight miles from St Davids, I’d turned off the A487 at Croesgoch, and shortly after, reached the village of Porthgain. I stood on the harbour wall, ignoring the drizzle until, eventually, the wind picked up, sea and sky merged in blurry layers of grey, and the inquisitive seal disappeared. I took refuge, then, along with walkers who had descended from the Pembrokeshire Coast Path inside The Shed, a bright café.