The world of tree dragons

Perseverance pays off
Rest assured – they are not! I am hoping this article will help to break down the misconceptions about this group of lizards, and help people to understand their needs better. Tree dragons are indeed specialised in their care, and most tend to react badly to changes in their husbandry fairly quickly. However, if you can keep them in a suitable environment, which is certainly possible, they make interesting and rewarding vivarium occupants.

The mountain horned dragons (genus Acanthosaura) and the green water dragon (P. cocincinus) both inhabit similar habitats to these rarer agamids, sometimes living alongside them and yet these have been established in the hobby for years. In time, the other tree dragons will hopefully also become established in the hobby too, with support from dedicated specialists.

Careful acclimatisation
I will cover three of the genera I keep, each of which has fairly diff erent care requirements. There are the so-called garden lizards or bloodsuckers, forming the genus Calotes; Gonocephalus, which comprises the angleheads, and the crowned dragons (Hypsilurus).

It is fair to say that these lizards would not be recommended for beginners to the hobby, and it is important to gain experience keeping other arboreal forest lizards fi rst. This applies especially if you are confronted by wild caught (WC) specimens in poor condition, as these need to be considered with a degree of caution.

Tree dragons are only available very infrequently in the UK. When they are, they tend to be in need of care, not because they are inherently ‘difficult’, but simply because they have often not been looked after properly up to this point. Nevertheless, with appropriate care, many will pull through. As with any animal, choose the specimens in the best visual condition that are active and behave defensively when approached. Individuals that are dark in colour (assuming they are in suitably warm surroundings) or are not keen to move may have more serious issues, and can prove to be a liability.

Avoid thin animals if possible, but bear in mind that most tree dragons are naturally very slender animals. If, however, you can spot protruding hip bones, this is a sure sign that the individual is in a poor, malnourished condition.

Parasites are a problem
When acquiring any of these lizards, be prepared to get a full faecal test done as a matter of course, whether the animals could be showing signs of internal parasites or not. Qualified reptile veterinarians are obviously benefi cial in these circumstances, to advise on treatment if required.

If possible, it is preferable to get tree dragons feeding regularly for a week or two before attempting any medication, in my view. This will be controversial with some keepers who prefer to treat immediately. However, I feel the stress of catching the animal and getting it to settle in unfamiliar surroundings is sufficient, without having to handle it again, forcing its mouth open and squirting foul tasting medication down its throat! By all means, do treat for parasites, as is likely to be necessary, but it is probably best to allow the lizards to get used to their new enclosure first.

Humidity
As they are tropical agamids, tree dragons require high humidity. Daily spraying with warm water is essential for drinking and shedding purposes, but do not allow this to build up excessively, in order to avoid problems with mould. Good ventilation is also important for this reason.

A drainage system can be incorporated into the substrate to keep it from stagnating. Moving water can be created with 12V pumps in a standard water container and is desirable although not essential for most species. If conditions are too dry, skin shedding becomes problematic and “stepping” may occur on the crest spines, giving them a jagged appearance.