Borrowed time
AS RENTAL FASHION STAGES A SECOND COMING, MAEVE GALEA LOOKS BACK ON THE MOVEMENT TO SEE WHAT’S NEXT FOR THE CLOTHES WE DON’T QUITE OWN
How rental fashion went from a revolutionary concept to a cautionary tale can be traced back to a handful of moments. But for practicality’s sake, let’s say the cracks began to show around 2016.
Rent the Runway is a prime example. Launched in 2009, it disrupted traditional retail by creating an online rental service that gave designer-hungry wedding guests and gala-goers access to the dresses of their dreams. Within its first week, 20,000 women had signed up, sold on the idea of spending US$100 ($153) to wear a US$1100 ($1684) Proenza Schouler ensemble to their next big event. Dry-cleaning was included, insurance optional, and soon the offer expanded to accessories — so, in theory, an entire look could be rented with just a few clicks.
However, as the years went on, scaling or achieving profitability with this model proved elusive and, as such, platforms began flirting with the idea of moving from event wear to everyday dressing. Suddenly, Rent the Runway’s homepage banner announced, “It’s always an RTR day.” Psychedelic floral frocks from Anna Sui and Altuzarra bubble skirts now appeared alongside new-season Ralph Lauren cable-knit vests and Anine Bing blazers built for the boardroom. The platform launched an Unlimited subscription, allowing members to borrow several items at a time, swap them out whenever they wanted, and effectively treat the platform like an endless wardrobe.
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