From Ben Gurion Airport I headed to The West Bank, to a village called Sebastia, where I stayed in Al Kayed Guest House. It’s an impressive Ottoman building, largely untouched with a wonderful women’s initiative set up by the UN, just underneath. First thing in the morning, I visited the ladies making breads to sell; with a kind welcome they gave me warm za’atar spice topped breads, dripping in exceptional local olive oil. I enjoyed them with a fragrant cup of cardamom-infused coffee, surrounded by lush green views and kumquat trees; a great way to start the day.
Sebastia was a regional capital during the second Iron Age and a notable urban centre during the Hellenistic-Roman period. Sights include the place where St John Baptist’s body rests, an archaeological museum with artefacts from the Iron Age, Roman, Byzantine and Bronze Age, a Roman cemetery and theatre. There is a 330km 10-year-old walking trail to take in the serene scenery; lemon trees, cactus plants, almond blossom, ancient olive groves, bright red poppies, 2,000-yearold Roman columns and you can even spot the odd mosaic peaking through the mud.
The nearby Holy Land Sun Restaurant is the place to grab some lunch - opt for a vegan ‘mussakhan’ (translating to browned during additional cooking). Essentially a flatbread with lots of unctuous olive oil, fragrantly spiced onions, sumac and fresh lemon juice, traditionally served with chicken, but owner Hafez Kayed insists the real taste derives from olive oil, sumac and onions, with plates of seasonal fruit to follow. Be sure to visit the souvenir shop where you’ll be greeted with delicious crisp barazeq; sesame seed biscuits.