CLAMS
STAR OF THE SEASON
I love the way clams punch above their weight when it comes to tasting of the sea – they look tiny out of their shells, but the ozoney flavour and wonderful aroma more than make up for their lack of size. Although clams can be expensive, they’re so simple to cook with and they’re one of my favourite ingredients at this time of year when they’re at their best. LOTTIE COVELL, ACTING FOOD LIFESTYLE EDITOR
RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING LOTTIE COVELL
PHOTOGRAPHS GARETH MORGANS STYLING DAVINA PERKINS
WHAT TO LOOK FOR WHEN YOU BUY
The shells can be open or closed, but when you tap them on a hard surface there should be some movement to show the clams are alive. Ask your fishmonger when they were caught and make sure the shells aren’t damaged or broken. The most popular UK clam, the amande de mer, is so called for its delicate almond flavour (I’m not sure why its British name is dog cockle!). Cherrystone clams, brought over on ships from the US, have now colonised some British waters, so you can sometimes find those locally.