THIS MONTH IN THE delicious. KITCHEN…

While the delicious. food team are testing recipes, they’re often debating the best ways to do things as well as answer cooking questions that arise in the test kitchen. Why, we wondered, did we all feel sleepy after a kale-heavy test-kitchen lunch? We also debated the seasonality of fish – yes, the time of year does play a role in what seafood’s best. It’s the kind of information you won’t find anywhere else, and it will take your cooking to the next level.

MAKE THE BOUNTY LAST

RADISHES

Home-grown radishes are at their best right now. Turn to p63 for Ella Tarn’s ideas on how to cook and enjoy this beauty. If you have a glut on your hands, here’s how to preserve them

FREEZE Cut into 0.5cm slices, pack into bags and freeze for up to six months. To eat, melt a little butter in a pan and add the frozen radishes, cooking until the liquid that melts off boils away and they start to turn gold. Stir in peas or broad beans for a colour and flavour contrast.

PRESERVE If you haven’t tried making a pickle by natural fermentation (like sauerkraut), radishes are a great place to start. Mix 12g salt with 250ml water. Slice 250g radishes 0.5cm thick and pack into a large sterilised jar. Pour over the brine. Sit a smaller jar on top of the radishes to keep them submerged. Don’t put a lid on: it needs air. Cover with a clean tea towel, set aside for 4-7 days until it tastes pleasantly sour, then seal and keep in the fridge for up to a month.

See how to sterilise jars at deliciousmagazine.co.uk/videos/how-tosterilise-jars

TECHNIQUE

How to make elderflower cordial

1 Take 25 elderflower heads and shake well to remove any insects or debris.

2 Put the elderflowers in a large heatproof bowl with 2 unwaxed lemons, sliced, and 2 unwaxed limes, sliced.

3 Bring 1.5 litres water to the boil, then pour over the elderflowers. Cover and leave overnight in a cool place to infuse.

4 Strain the liquid through a fine sieve into a large pan, then strain again through a fine sieve lined with a large piece of muslin or a clean J Cloth. Add 1kg sugar, the juice of 1 lemon and 1 lime, and 2 tbsp citric acid (if you want the cordial to last longer; from amazon.co.uk).

5 Heat over a low heat until the sugar dissolves, then simmer for 2 minutes.

6 Using a funnel, pour the hot syrup into sterilised bottles (see left). You should have around 2 litres cordial. Seal the bottles, then store in a cool place. If you’ve used citric acid, store in a cool place for 3-4 months and, once open, store in the fridge and use within 1 month. If you haven’t used citric acid, the unopened cordial will keep for 3-4 weeks.