ILLUSTRATION: KERRY HYNDMAN
Lima in June is a cloudy affair; the winter sun may not emerge for 10 days straight and it drizzles every day, sometimes all day. Yet dreary weather frames a city where the welcome is warm, where centuries-old plazas and palaces feature impeccable, buzzy dining rooms or astounding art collections. It’s easy to sense how Spanish invaders, a complex indigenous culture, and later waves of immigration gave Lima its diversity and challenges, its colours and fascination. In twisting lanes and squares, chatty crowds seek warmth in cafes and watering holes. Sit down and you start to hear attitudes — some carping but most optimistic. It’s the sound of an ancient city marching straight into the future.
NEIGHBOURHOOD