Jamal Mahjoub in Khartoum
Back in November it seemed that Sudan had, surprisingly, become a tourist destination. At the pyramids in Meroë, 120 miles northwest of the capital Khartoum, we found ourselves in the midst of a group of Spanish tourists yelling loudly to one another. When I first visited nearly 30 years ago, there was no road and no resthouses. Now the country’s crumbling heritage appears in danger of overexposure.