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October - December 2021
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All that heaven will allow
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9 MIN LEESTIJD
SEYCHELLES
All that heaven will allow
After 18 months of being largely housebound, it is no surprise that interest in beach holidays has seldom been stronger as many of us seek the calming balm of sun, sea and sand. Few places offer a more idyllic escape than The Seychelles, which has increased its marine protection zone to 30 per cent as part of the world’s first debt conversion deal. A boon in conservation-lead projects now offer wildlife-lovers extraordinary new opportunities to experience island life like never before.
BY SARAH MARSHALL
Isle of dreams:
Alphonse Island is only one sq km in area, situated 400km (one hour’s flight) from Mahé. It is one of 115 islands in the archipelago
BLUE SAFARI
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Dit artikel komt uit...
Travel Africa
October - December 2021
IN DE WINKEL BEKIJKEN
Andere artikelen in dit nummer
Karibu
THE PROMISE
On safari the day starts early. Even before the first light begins to filter through the canvas
EMPTY SKY
Africa is big sky country!
Editor’s letter
Recently I have been thinking a lot about the influences in my life
Indaba
Two faces
A place to share our experiences
THE TIES THAT BIND
More of your stories about what Africa means to you, why (and when) you fell in love with it and what keeps pulling you back. Thank you for sharing!
MY BEAUTIFUL REWARD
In Legacy of Love, a new 328-page coffee table book that hopes to raise awareness and funds for conservation, more than 50 leading animal charity founders, artists, photographers and actors share their passion for their craft and wildlife.
HUNGRY HEART
Food is an integral part of the travel experience, and some meals will always transport you back to your favourite places.
LETTER TO YOU
The wonder of travel – and the lessons it offers – is never too far away.
THUNDER ROAD
Having self-driven 6500km through five southern African countries, Mike Breslin is well-versed in the practicalities of this sort of adventure. But what exactly is the appeal of such a trip, and what do we hope to get from it?
WAITIN’ ON A SUNNY DAY
If you’re not yet able to head out to Africa, there’s no reason why you can’t indulge your passion for the bush from home, getting better prepared in the process.
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Subscribe!
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Features
BOOK OF DREAMS
Feeling adventurous? Ready to experience once again the excitement of visiting somewhere fresh and unexpected, of heading off the usual tourist path? In a country as large and diverse as South Africa there’s no shortage of stimulating, remote places to go and things to do.
THE WAYFARER
South Africa is excellent road-tripping territory and there are a number of wellmarketed self-drive routes. But if you enjoy exploring at your own pace and discovering out-of-the way spots, here are five recommended journeys…
Human touch
What happens behind the scenes when tourism stops abruptly? With livelihoods and conservation at risk, everyone needs to find ways to keep going and preparing for the safe return of visitors.
GROWIN’ UP
On the 25th anniversary of the opening of Muchenje Safari Lodge, we returned to see what this quiet corner of Chobe offers today’s wildlife lover
The rising
The birth of a safari lodge
THE RIVER
Is there a better way to escape the noise and hustle of modern living than by drifting down the Zambezi, with the sound of your paddle in the water and birdsong in the air?
SPIRIT OF THE NIGHT
On multi-day canoe trips, you’ll find a spot to set up camp each evening. Overnight camping here is an experience like few others. Mike Unwin recalls one particularly memorable evening
THE PROMISED LAND
Canoeing the Upper Zambezi, above Victoria Falls
FOLLOW THAT DREAM
Canoeing the Zambezi is one of the great adventures, providing close encounters with wildlife along the river banks, and fantastic resident birdlife, with summer migrants present between October and March.
Jungleland
The vast forests of the Congo Basin – ‘the lungs of Africa’ – are among the most valuable habitats on Earth. Essential for regulating the climate, they also provide sanctuary to a staggering wealth of flora and fauna.
Secret garden
“If I had to describe a week here, it would blow you away," says Rod Cassidy, owner of Sangha Lodge
WESTERN STARS
Bafflingly diverse and exhilaratingly unspoilt, coastal West Africa boasts some of the continent’s most memorable cultural and historic sites.
MY HOMETOWN
Kigali has gained a reputation as one the cleanest and safest cities in the world, and is rapidly becoming an important regional hub. With tourism on the rise in Rwanda, most visitors spend some time in the capital.
Reason to believe
Intrepid wildlife-lovers have long been aware of the appeal of the spectacular Kidepo Valley National Park in the far north of Uganda.
INDEPENDENCE DAY
Lodge safaris have considerable benefits: all the comforts of home (and more), great food, waiter service, excellent guides, special access to some areas and the reassurance of a whole support team. But for people on tight budgets, looking to spend extended time in the bush, perhaps with family or who simply prefer to have their time to themselves, it’s perfectly doable to take matters into your own hands
Backstreets
As we embrace the opportunity to venture into the world again, perhaps we should travel with less purpose? In Zanzibar, Sue Watt reflects on the joy of the slow and aimless meander
Beyond Stone Town
Zanzibar is one of Africa’s most appealing destinations for people wanting a taste of Swahili coastal life.
Born to run
Golden hour: The pack readies themselves, Mana Pools
Conservation
ONE STEP UP
AWF RESEARCH • POSITIVE NEWS • ADMIRING INSECTS • BATESIAN MIMICRY
SEEDS
AWF has supported conservation for 60 years. It’s early investment in research projects has helped build a legacy that informs today’s important initiatives
BETTER DAYS
Artists across the globe are leveraging their work to raise awareness and funds for conservation. In addition to the Remembering Wildlife and Legacy of Love initiatives featured in this issue, these include the following:
EYES ON THE PRIZE
Could gaming help fund conservation?
PROJECT RANGER
It costs around US$500 to keep one ranger
IT’S THE LITTLE THINGS
Our ecosystems rely on pollinators, predators and parasites – the insects we so often overlook. Here we look at 10 examples from the many thousands which play a critical role in sustaining our habitats
BRILLIANT DISGUISE
SURVIVAL INSTINCT How some baby animals use deception to avoid detection
Safari
HIGH HOPES
EXPERT TRAVEL ADVICE ● EXCLUSIVE-USE PROPERTIES ● BEKS NDLOVU PROFILE
When you’re alone
With the demand for exclusive-use safari properties on the rise, we look at what they offer today’s traveller
FOR YOU
A sampling of exclusive-use safari lodgings
Working on a dream
Beks Ndlovu founded African Bush Camps 15 years ago. To mark the anniversary, we talked to him about his journey and his reflections on tourism in a post-pandemic world
Long time comin’
And now it’s here. As restrictions continue to ease and we start to travel again, there’s no doubt you’ll have more to think about than before the pandemic, be it of safety, the environment or Covid protocols. Never has it been more important to consult your tour operator – they should be aware of the situation in the destination you want to visit and help you plan with confidence. We asked a few of them for a quick bit of advice for readers looking to venture on safari soon
Leap of faith
Amid the difficulties caused by the pandemic, some positive opportunities have arisen. For guide Geoff Mayes, it offered a chance to pursue his dream
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