Setting the scene
Salzburg is the birthplace of Mozart, the location of The Sound of Music and, as we discover, the home of a small but intimate queer community
Words Alastair James
CITYSCAPE: Salzburg’s glorious panorama, crowned by Fortress Hohensalzburg
Photography Alastair James and Tourismus Salzburg
Quaint and picturesque, traditional and conservative. During a four-night trip to Salzburg, the Austrian city pretty much matches my expectations — until a raucous queer night at Magic Garage reveals a thriving scene that points to a promising and alternative future.
Entering Magic Garage’s home at the NarrenCastl bar with my group of fellow LGBTQ+ journalists and travel bloggers, I’m immediately struck by the strong community atmosphere. A mismatch of patrons, young and old, queer and straight, with all sorts of identities, mingle cheerfully, creating a warm and inviting buzz as they wait for that evening’s — sold-out — drag show. The diversity of the crowd, tightly packed into a small space, is encouraging to see. It also hints that tonight’s entertainment will be worth my precarious perch on the arm of an old sofa.
When the evening’s emcee, Ryder Goodenheart, asks if the audience is “ready to start a new drag year in Salzburg”, he gets an effusive response. The show that follows is a diverse mix of performers with drag queens and kings and more taking to the cabaret stage. The audience is delighted by Ms Dilly Dally’s fantastically queer and colourful performance as Mozart, titillated by Hair Puta’s take on ‘Welcome to Burlesque’ from Burlesque, and tickled by drag king Karl Ossis.