RECIPES DEBORA ROBERTSON PHOTOGRAPHS HANNAH HUGHES FOOD STYLING EMILY GUSSIN STYLING VICTORIA ELDRIDGE
This time last year, we’d just moved into a crumbling old house in a village in southwest France. It didn’t have any central heating or, in fact, any heating other than fireplaces in the study and one bedroom, both of which smoked alarmingly when the wind blew in a certain direction. The house is right on a harbour (charmingly appointed with incredible views, the estate agent said), so the winds blow in a certain direction with breezy regularity. With incredible foresight, we removed all the old roof tiles just as the evening temperatures dipped to -5°C.