5 OF THE BEST Italian cookbooks of all time

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WHAT’S ON THE ITALIAN MENU?

Head of food Tom Shingler combines dishes from Italy’s four corners

If you make one thing…

Through the simple alchemy of a little heat and whisking, eggs, sugar and sweet wine are transformed into the silky cloud of loveliness known as zabaione

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Once upon a time in Italy…

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A moveable feast

In France – home of our columnist, Debora Robertson – they call it socca, but in Italy, where this street-food treat is said to be from, it’s farinata. Either way, it’s flat-out flavoursome

Down by the sea

Food writer Amber Guinness grew up in Italy and her new book celebrates the sun-drenched cooking of the country’s west coast, from Tuscany down to Sicily, where these recipes find their home

The power of amore

Five years ago, food campaigner Danny McCubbin had the idea of founding a charity kitchen in a remote Sicilian hill town. Today it’s thriving, thanks to Danny’s passion, energy – and faith in the power of food to bring people together

A SLOW FOOD REVOLUTION

It started in a tiny Piedmont town, as a reaction to fast food outlets opening in Italy. Today, Slow Food is a global phenomenon – but can the group’s work really change our food systems for the better? Food writer Ashleigh Arnott follows the snail trail

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A glass of greco di tufo with Gennaro Contaldo

The genial chef recalls his aunt’s unbeatable ragù, getting to grips with British fish and chips, the good fortune he had to be born on the Amalfi coast – and his special ritual when returning home. Can you guess what his favourite pizza topping is?

From Veneto with LOVE

The region around Venice is one of bountiful produce, from fresh seafood to the rice fields and livestock farming of the Po Valley. Food writer Ursula Ferrigno knows the area well and, in these recipes from her new book, she showcases Veneto’s many glories

Welcome to your ITALIAN TOUR

Here it is: your culinary journey the length

TUSCANY

With the hilltop villages of ‘Chiantishire’ and cities such as Pisa, Siena and Florence, Tuscany is Italy’s second most visited region (after Veneto). From the Apennine mountains to the Tyrrhenian coast, fine produce from borlotti beans to olives is enjoyed as simply as possible. The Tuscans love their meat too (see the steak on p116) and they have the red wines to go with it: chianti, brunello di montalcino, sangiovese

UMBRIA

This fertile pocket of central Italy is a must-visit for its pork and truffles. Umbria produces more truffles than any other part of Italy, with the prized underground fungi lurking in the chestnut woodlands, ready to be uncovered by trained dogs. Pork reigns supreme as pigs snuffle among the trees, but the hills are home to sheep, too. Game is also a speciality: hare ragù and slow-roasted pigeon are classics

PUGLIA

The heel of Italy’s ‘boot’, Puglia produces nearly half the country’s olive oil and more wine than any other region, and it’s where most of the durum wheat is grown. Despite this, Puglia has traditionally been a poor region. Simple dishes make the most of what’s at its best, with meat as more of a treat. Along the coast, fish and seafood are more prominent, but it’s really the seasonal veg, egg-free pastas and breads that stand out

BASILICATA

Wild, rugged and mountainous, Basilicata is a hidden gem of southern Italy and a region with some serious history. This is the home of Matera, one of the world’s oldest cities. Breadmaking here can be traced back to 7,000BC and some claim it as the birthplace of pasta – all thanks to the abundant durum wheat grown in the region. Basilicatan food, like that of the region’s southern neighbours, is simple, with vegetables playing an important role alongside pulses and beans

VENETO

Venice might be the main reason people visit this region, but Lake Garda, Verona and Vicenza draw them in, too. The countryside is stunning, with the Dolomite mountains, verdant hills and valleys, lagoons and a coastline. Meat, seafood (from clams to soft-shell crab), veg, rice, pasta – it’s all here, with the star dessert tiramisu to finish and a spritz on the side. In Venice, it’s all about cicchetti – small plates served at the bar

CALABRIA

The toe of Italy’s ‘boot’, Calabria is sunny, fertile and beautiful, with 500 miles of coastline. Traditionally, it has also been one of the poorest regions – and the humble cuisine reflects that. Artisanal gems include the fiery, soft pork sausage ’nduja and there are wonderful tomatoes, plus lots of fish and seafood. You’ll find dishes flavoured with locally grown liquorice, chilli and bergamot, a citrus fruit.

EMILIAROMAGNA

If you fancy rolling out more DIY pasta

LAZIO

Being home to Rome means Lazio often plays

CAMPANIA

RECIPE: POLLYANNA COUPLAND One of Italy’s most visited

LIGURIA

A BIT ABOUT BEN WAUGH Ben rose through

SARDINIA

A BIT ABOUT LELLO FAVUZZI Lello grew up

FRIULIVENEZIA GIULIA

This region exemplifies just how varied Italian food

LOMBARDY

“As a child, I’d visit the beautiful houses

SICILY

The rich volcanic soils and hot climate of

MOLISE

For such a small area, Molise has dramatic

VALLE D’AOSTA

This remote Alpine valley is Italy’s smallest region

TRENTINOALTO ADIGE

RECIPE: EMILY GUSSIN As Austrian as it is

LE MARCHE

RECIPE: POLLYANNA COUPLAND For more sensational seafood recipes

PIEDMONT

RECIPE: EMILY GUSSIN A huge region (second only

Tomatoes

In late summer British tomatoes are at their juicy peak. Bursting with sunshine flavours, these Italian recipes showcase their brilliant versatility

When Italians cake do

They don’t make that many cakes in Italy, but when they do, the results are delizioso! Here, chef Theo Randall shares three of his favourite regional ‘tortas’ (cakes and tarts) from the northern half of the country

RISOTTO ALLA MILANESE

No shortcuts. No cheat ingredients. Our best of the best series takes the view that if something’s worth doing, it’s worth doing well. Each month we take a classic dish, delve into the processes and analyse why it tastes so good – then we share our ultimate recipe. This month: Pollyanna Coupland is stirred into action by an Italian icon

PIZZA OVEN 101

To get the most out of a pizza oven you need to know how to use it like a proper pizzaiolo. Brothers and pizza van owners Matt (left) and Phil Teeman share top tips – plus their secret pizza sauce recipe

Beyond pizza

These three regional bakes (from Liguria, Puglia and Sicily) bring the familiar thrills of softness, crunch, melted cheese and rich tomato sauce – but they’re not pizza. Based on focaccia dough, they may well become your new favourite Italian savouries

The joy of heavy metal

The enamelled cast-iron griddle, says head of food Tom Shingler, is the best thing to happen to steak since salt. But what exactly is enamelled cast iron, and what makes it so darned good? Here’s his lowdown, plus a classic Italian recipe cooked on a ProCook griddle that makes full use of its powers

DON’T BIN IT!

Zero-waste tips from Italian kitchens

WIN! A gift box of Italian delicacies

Italian food specialist Sacla’ has curated three boxes of fabulous food and drink

WIN! A luxury break to Alta Badia in the Italian Dolomites

Enter to win a three-night summer break at the new Hotel Recort, including flights with SkyAlps

Drinks

The best Italian drinks to buy right now, plus a Venetian aperitivo

Susy’s best Italian buys

Take your taste buds on a drinks tour

Recipe index

ESSENTIAL RECIPE INFO You can freeze all or

JUMBO CROSSWORD

There’s a prize to be won and food knowledge to be tested with Hugh Thompson’s Italian-flavoured crossword. It’s what espresso and torta were made for...

To get tiramisu right, you have to get it wrong

Food writer Dianne Bortoletto has family history in Treviso, where the world’s favourite Italian dessert originated, and where she once spent a weekend sampling every version in town. But what’s her definitive recipe?