Alpinist Magazine

Alpinist Issue 92 features a Mountain Profile by Tami Knight. Tucked deep within British Columbia’s Coast Mountains, the Tiedemann Group is far less famous than its taller neighbor to the west, Mt. Waddington, but its frozen couloirs and snow-speckled rock faces tell a captivating story of their own. The range remains almost as remote today as it was a hundred years ago when Don and Phyllis Munday first visited. Tami Knight shares its lesser-known history, from the early days of hellacious approaches and fresh summits to modern tales of helicopter access and bold new lines. All tied up in various ways with Serra V, the last major summit to be reached in the group, Glenn Woodsworth, Michael Down, Peter Croft and Ethan Berman detail their own memories and misadventures.

Elsewhere in the magazine, Diana Boyer interviews top alpinists from around the world who’ve been using paragliders to realize new possibilities, flying to and from remote peaks and off of 8000-meter summits and desert towers. But “para-alpinism” comes with a new set of risks and questions. August Franzen writes of his expedition to the summit of Yashkuk Sar I (6667m) with Dane Steadman and Cody Winckler last year, which also marked a journey through layers of complex grief. After losing his girlfriend in a climbing accident in 2020, and then his close friend Brian Teale in 2022, Franzen questioned why he still climbed at all.

Meanwhile, Derek Franz recounts special moments from his trip to Switzerland with The North Face team. Franz, Abbey Collins and Andrew Szalay share reading recommendations.

Twins Marek and Petr Disman share a unique partnership that sometimes gets them in trouble. Leath Tonino gazes into plein air and Erin Connery imagines a culture clash on private property. Ryleigh Norgrove celebrates Kelsey Gray’s contributions to Alaska climbing. Henry Barber (almost) gets caught in a bad way. And much, much more.