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April 2017
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SAUDADE
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77 MIN READ TIME
SAUDADE
WORDS OLIVER SMITH @olismithtravel PHOTOGRAPHS JONATHAN STOKES @jonstokes1
Locals on the battlements of Lisbon’s São Jorge Castle with the 25 de Abril Bridge in the distance.
Afternoon scene in the Alfama district
Saudade is a Portuguese word with no direct translation into English.
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Lonely Planet
April 2017
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Other Articles in this Issue
EDITOR’S LETTER
This month...
…we are agog at how the first 100 issues of
REGULARS
BEHIND THE SCENES
What Team Lonely Planet has been up to this month
POSTCARDS
Postcards
WHERE YOU’VE BEEN AND WHAT YOU’VE SEEN
This month: Once in a lifetime
Why not get involved? Follow us at @lonelyplanetmags for details
GLOBETROTTER
Globetrotter
A WORLD OF TRAVEL NEWS AND DISCOVERIES
WALK ON THE Wildside
Not many things compare to the thrill of seeing Africa’s Big Five in the wild. But if you want to be in with a chance of tracking them all down, you need to enlist the experts. Try one of these itineraries, each designed to get you up close and personal with one of nature’s giants
EASY TRIPS
Easy Trips
THIS MONTH... escape to the Hebrides, discover New York’s latest hangout, find sun in Puerto Rico, go walking in Croatia and make a break for Buckinghamshire
Outer this world
Only an hour’s flight from Glasgow, the Isle of Harris
LIFE IS A CABARET
See out the end of winter with some nostalgic entertainment in Europe’s best venues
New views from Brooklyn
Red Hook is a New York neighbourhood on the up
Court in a time warp
Out-of-season Devon is an enchanting place, with mists swirling, and
Walk the Dalmatian
The Adriatic coastline of Croatia is contorted into so many
AMERICA IN PRINT
Charting six decades of US culture is the latest challenge
Blue sky thinking
For anyone craving a blissful tropical beach as spring showers
The Mash Inn
Word is spreading fast about the Mash Inn, a pub
GREAT ESCAPES
Great Escape Plan your trip
It’s trip-of-a-lifetime stuff with our itinerary to this wildlife-rich island in the Indian Ocean. Meet your first lemurs at Kirindy, before driving along baobab-lined roads to the rock pinnacles of Tsingy. Next head east, for even closer encounters with creatures in Andasibe and a boat trip along the Pangalanes Canal
FEATURES
PARIS ON FILM
Cinema was born in the French capital when Auguste and Louis Lumière screened their first short film here in 1895. The city feels like one giant, ageless movie set, its doors permanently open: the Eiffel Tower and Notre Dame are silver-screen stars as surely as Gérard Depardieu or Catherine Deneuve. Follow in the footsteps of giants with our tour of film locations haunted by Paris’s silver-screen residents and visitors, from Amélie to 007
100 ISSUES IN THE MAKING
The Lonely Planet Traveller team’s most memorable experiences creating the magazine
CALIFORNIA DREAMIN’
IT’S BEEN 50 YEARS SINCE THE SUMMER OF LOVE PUT SAN FRANCISCO IN THE SPOTLIGHT. BUT FROM ORGANIC FARMERS’ MARKETS TO OPEN-AIR STREET PARTIES, AND A STORE WHERE EVERYTHING IS FREE, THE LEGACY OF THOSE GOLDEN DAYS STILL LIVES ON ACROSS THE BAY AREA
PHOTO GRAPHER’S STORY
Heaven-sent
From 2000 to 2013 I lived in Mongolia, first as
MINI GUIDES
Cinematic London
It’s not just Paris that basks in the silver-screen glow (see p54) – London’s streets are film-crew favourites and many cinemas in the capital are sights in their own right
Baltic Coast Germany
White sands and crisp sea wash the fabled heritage towns and resorts of Germany’s northeasterly coastline – surely one of Europe’s better-kept secrets
Weekend in Turin
A bastion of Slow Food, historical home of the Fiat and Italy’s inaugural (if short-lived) capital: Turin is an underrated delight for weekending culture cravers and food lovers
Outdoors in the Peloponnese
Within easy reach of Athens, this Greek peninsula is rich in ancient sites and shaped by a gorgeous topography of lofty mountains, vast gorges and sandy beaches
World food in Toronto
Eating out in this Canadian metropolis is a delight, as flavours, aromas, sights and sounds of almost every nation converge peacefully – particularly on the plate
Budget Shanghai
China’s capital of colonial history and glamour is known for its flash architecture and ritzy bars and restaurants, but many of its highlights are actually cheap or free
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