So far in this series we have learnt what to expect from different phases of the tide, and the currents it creates. Now we will move away from the hydrosphere and explore the atmosphere, because the two are inextricably linked.
Starting with the theory, what actually makes wind? Wind is the movement of air from areas of high pressure [where cold air is sinking] to areas of low pressure [where warm air is rising]. The wind this process creates has a massive effect on the seas in which we swim, and the two variables you need to consider are speed and direction. While stronger winds definitely have the potential to create rougher seas, in coastal waters the direction it blows is perhaps even more significant. Cross-shore, on-shore or off-shore winds shape very different seas.