In Russia, pies (pirogi) come in many shapes and sizes.
Sometimes the dough is leavened, other times not, while the pie may be open or closed. Inside the pie – which could be triangular, round or square – you’ll find fillings ranging from meat and mushrooms to cabbage and cheese. One of the very finest is the kulebyaka – or coulibiac in French: a fully enclosed salmon and rice pie, which is robust, golden-brown and crusty. It can be made well in advance.